In the Ganjam district of Odisha, September brings a golden glow to the fields as foxtail millet ripens. This harvest time is marked by ‘Tammne Abdoor’, a special festival celebrated by the Saura community. It’s a time of joy and gratitude for the bounty of the land.
Farmers in villages like Balisahi, Dharakote block, treat foxtail millet, known locally as ‘Kangu’, as more than just a crop. It’s a symbol of their identity, their strength, and a promise of a sustainable future. Anna Raita, a farmer from Kusumabasa village, explains that harvesting with an iron sickle is a skill learned over many years. “Kangu is our strength,” she says, highlighting its ability to grow even with less rain, ensuring food security for families.
After harvesting, the grains are carefully sun-dried. This traditional method helps preserve the millet and improves its quality for storage. In Gambarikhalia village, women farmers like Shanti Mandal, Jayanti Mandal, and Sunemi Badaraita use their feet to thresh the millet panicles. This age-old practice shows their hard work and the deep-rooted traditions passed down through generations.
Jayanti Mandal skillfully separates the grains from the chaff using a ‘kula’, a traditional bamboo tray. She believes each grain represents the hard work of their ancestors. “Winnowing is not just a task, it’s a tradition we honour,” she shares.
The harvested millet is then processed. Jayanti Mandal hand-pounds the grains using a wooden tool called a ‘kuten’. Before anyone eats it, the flour is first offered to their family deity. Pukshi Gamanga from Badua village proudly holds the pounded millet flour in a bamboo basket, saying, “Every grain tells the story of our hard work and traditions.”
The festival’s rituals are central. Gamanga prepares ‘jau’ (a porridge-like dish) and ‘kheer’ (a sweet pudding) from the first harvest. These are first offered to the deity. Afterwards, a unique tradition follows where women eat these dishes first, followed by the men, symbolising love and care.
Gamanga serves the foxtail millet jau and kheer to her grandchildren, passing down traditions through food. The preparation of Kangu kheer involves simmering the rice with golden jaggery, creating a sweet and rich delicacy often made during festivals.
With the support of the ‘Shree Anna Abhiyan’ initiative, the Saura community has also learned to cook modern dishes like Kangu upma. They now understand the nutritional benefits of foxtail millet and have made it a regular part of their diet. Kangu upma is now a popular, healthy breakfast and a dish of pride, often served to guests.
The image of women farmers in traditional bamboo hats, called ‘talari’, harvesting foxtail millet captures the spirit of this important agricultural tradition and the community’s deep connection to this ancient grain.